Why This Place? A Look at the Great Lakes Region
Perched more than 1,000 metres above sea level, Miena is a tiny highland township that sees Tasmania at its most extreme and most breathtaking. Known as one of the coldest places in the state, its population naturally swells in the warmer months, but those who brave winter are rewarded with a snow dusted wonderland and the kind of frosty mornings that seem to freeze time itself.
Nearby, the Central Plateau Conservation Area stretches out across the landscape, often called the “Land of a Thousand Lakes.” This vast, wild alpine environment is part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, offering both raw beauty and ecological significance. Miena sits roughly 80 minutes southwest of Launceston and 100 minutes northwest of Hobart, yet it feels worlds away from the familiar.
Despite the chill, this is a place alive with delicate life. The region is home to threatened species like the Ptunarra brown butterfly, the rare Miena Jewel Beetle, and the elusive Liawenee Greenhood orchid. These aren’t just names on a list, they’re reminders of the land’s fragility and its need for careful stewardship.
The jewel of the region, Tasmania’s Great Lake, is more than a scenic backdrop, it’s the largest hydroelectric storage in the Central Highlands. Dammed and re-dammed since 1912, it now holds over 3 billion cubic metres of water when full. Yet even at low levels, when the lake’s scars show and its bays shrink, it remains a prized trout fishery. In fact, the drop in water has led to better weed growth, more invertebrates, and bigger, bolder brown trout, now averaging 2.6 pounds or 1.18 kg.
Fly fishing here is unlike anywhere else in the country. Anglers who once waited for calm evenings are beginning to discover the thrill of daytime fishing with blue skies, polaroiding from shore, and the kind of crystal clear water that rewards skill and patience. Midge hatches are frequent, and on bright days with a good ripple, the dry fly action can be unforgettable.
But it’s not just about fishing or wilderness stats.
As writer and frost chaser Graham Barker once noted, “Not everyone finds joy in cold mornings. But if you appreciate the refreshing purity and crispness of a still and cold dawn, then the Great Lake area of Tasmania’s central plateau provides plenty of opportunities to be delighted by a frosty sunrise.”
This is the kind of place that makes you slow down. That invites you to step outside of your routines and into a world where the night sky dazzles, the frost thickens like snow, and every freezing breath feels like a gift.
Real Talk with Chilian Backpacker,
Valentina: Why I Chose the Cold
“I didn’t come to Australia just for beaches.
I came to find out what I was capable of.”
When winter descends on Tasmania, most backpackers start heading north, chasing the sun and easier conditions. But not everyone.
Valentina, a 27 year old backpacker from Chile, made a very different choice, one that involved icy lakes, early mornings, and a deep dive into personal growth.
We sat down with her to talk about why she stayed, what she’s learned, and what really happens when you stop running from discomfort and start walking straight into it.
Most backpackers escape Tasmania in winter. Why did you stay?
I didn’t come to Australia just for beaches. I came to find out what I was capable of. Tasmania’s winter looked like the kind of challenge that could change me, and it has. It strips everything back. You’re not distracted by noise, crowds, or comfort. It’s just you and the cold and your own choices. And I liked the sound of that.
What’s your typical day like here?
I wake up naturally around 5 AM, before the light comes. It’s cold, like really cold, but there’s something calming about that. I walk to the edge of the Great Lake, where steam often rises off the surface and I just take the plunge.. literally and figuratively! I’m not in for long, just enough to remind myself that I can do hard things. That I choose discomfort because growth lives there.
That sounds brutal. What keeps you doing it?
At first, it was about testing myself. But now it’s something else. It’s a kind of anchor. When you start your day doing something hard, everything else feels easier. I walk out of that lake and feel like I’ve already accomplished something. It’s addictive, in the best way.
“I used to think I wasn’t tough. I was the girl who hated cold showers, who needed everything just so.”
What have you learned about yourself?
So much. I used to think I wasn’t tough. I was the girl who hated cold showers, who needed everything “just so.” But this place has changed that. Now I’m the girl who breaks the ice to get in the water. I’ve learned that resilience is built. You don’t have to be born with it, you can grow it, one choice at a time.
What would you say to other backpackers skipping the Tassie winter?
They’re missing the best part. No, seriously. This isn’t just a season, it’s an experience. If you’re looking for growth, for space to think, for something that’ll stay with you long after you leave, come in winter. The Great Lakes, where I am currently, will teach you more than any city ever could.
Quick Facts at a Glance
Where is it?
Miena is 80 minutes (107km) southwest of Launceston, 100 minutes (135km) northwest of Hobart, and approximately 2 hours (160km) southeast of Devonport.
Key Conservation Notes:
Home to rare species like the Miena Jewel Beetle, Ptunarra brown butterfly, and Liawenee Greenhood orchid, all requiring careful land management.
Fishing Highlights:
Famous for dry fly fishing, especially brown trout averaging 1.18 kg (2.6 lbs). Best on blue-sky days with light wind.
Altitude:
Over 1,000 metres above sea level, expect sub-zero temps and frequent frosts.
Frost + Night Sky:
Cold air, still conditions, and minimal light pollution make Miena a dream for stargazers and frost photographers.
Rare & Remarkable:
Hidden Stories of the Great Lake Region
Australia’s Coldest Inhabited Place: Liawenee, near Great Lake, holds the title for the coldest permanently inhabited location in Australia, with average winter temperatures around 1.7°C (35°F) and frequent sub-zero nights.
Ancient Aboriginal Heritage: The area around Miena and Liawenee has a rich Aboriginal history, with the Luggermairrenerpairer clan inhabiting the region for thousands of years. The name “Miena” translates to “lagoon-like” in the local Aboriginal language.
Submerged Settlements: The creation of the Great Lake reservoir led to the submergence of several settlements, including parts of the Brandum family’s property. Local legend speaks of “GranBrandumnie ” hiding treasure in her stove, prompting children in the 1920s to dive into the lake searching for it.
Steppes Sculptures: Near Miena, the Steppes Reserve features a unique collection of bronze sculptures by artist Stephen Walker, depicting native animals and commemorating the area’s pastoral history.
Hydro-Electric Pioneering: The Great Lake was first dammed in 1912 for hydro-electric purposes, with subsequent developments like the Tods Corner Power Station in 1966, showcasing Tasmania’s early adoption of renewable energy.
